2. 2008

Archangel Valley - The Diamond

A dry (but overcast) day on the rocks in Hatchers.
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The nearby climbing party tops out on <i>Toto 5.10</i> with a touch of blue sky showing.
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The nearby climbing party tops out on Toto 5.10 with a touch of blue sky showing.

AlaskaHatcher PassArchangel ValleyRock ClimbingToto Buttress2008Matanuska Susitna Valley

  • Kelsey crawls up a grassy ledge on a less frequently climbed route with Richard maintaining a belay below.
  • Richard and Kelsey rearrange gear at the anchors on the first pitch of this route.
  • The holds are great here, but not so much ahead. Kelsey grins as he places some pro.
  • Checking things out before moving on...
  • Kelsey's not feeling comfy yet, so he'll play with more gear.
  • A team of three climbers was climbing a route nearby. You can just make out one of them at a belay ledge near the top of this photo, with my wife Tracy in the foreground.
  • Kelsey continues moving through the first roof.
  • Nervous moves push Kelsey to place a few more pieces of protection in case he should fall.
  • Angled slabs of granite provide an interesting repetition to the landscape.
  • Alright... that should be enough protection to move forward.
  • A climber perched at the belay on one of the final pitches of <i>Toto 5.10</i>.
  • Kelsey grunts and works around to find out the move sequence through this difficult roof.
  • Kelsey's calves bulge through his skin as he finally unlocks the sequence to pass the roof.
  • Footwork is key as Kelsey moves forward.
  • Eventually, Kelsey resorted to a couple "french free" moves to pull through the crux.
  • Kelsey leapfrogs some gear to help him get at least high enough to examine the anchors and fixed pro on this route for his guidebook.
  • Kelsey pauses to reorganize, stemming a thin section and juggling gear with both hands.
  • The nearby climbing party tops out on <i>Toto 5.10</i> with a touch of blue sky showing.
  • Kelsey reaches the second tricky roof on this route, one he plans only to climb far enough past to check out the anchors.
  • Tricky moves even on "aid" lead Kelsey over the lip and within sight of the top of this pitch.
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