2. Workshop

Dutch Blitz Game Case

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I wanted this box to be a step above the ordinary of course, so I decided to do some inlaid dovetails with some Wenge. To do that I roughly eyeballed some oversized dovetails from the darker Wenge, and then cut those flush with the Zebra Wood. Then I cut out the smaller dovetails for the side pieces.
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I wanted this box to be a step above the ordinary of course, so I decided to do some inlaid dovetails with some Wenge. To do that I roughly eyeballed some oversized dovetails from the darker Wenge, and then cut those flush with the Zebra Wood. Then I cut out the smaller dovetails for the side pieces.

  • Dutch Blitz is a great card game, but the cardboard that it ships in falls apart super easy and everybody I know who plays has their game case duct taped together. So I decided to fix that, starting with a properly sized box made from a piece of Zebra Wood.
  • I wanted this box to be a step above the ordinary of course, so I decided to do some inlaid dovetails with some Wenge. To do that I roughly eyeballed some oversized dovetails from the darker Wenge, and then cut those flush with the Zebra Wood.
  • I wanted this box to be a step above the ordinary of course, so I decided to do some inlaid dovetails with some Wenge. To do that I roughly eyeballed some oversized dovetails from the darker Wenge, and then cut those flush with the Zebra Wood.
  • I wanted this box to be a step above the ordinary of course, so I decided to do some inlaid dovetails with some Wenge. To do that I roughly eyeballed some oversized dovetails from the darker Wenge, and then cut those flush with the Zebra Wood. Then I cut out the smaller dovetails for the side pieces.
  • After two sets of dovetails this is the rough look, which I'm really happy with even though I can certainly do better.
  • With the edges assembled I added the bottom, which is just a chunk of African Mahogany, and then carefully notched the lid to match a saw kerf in the sides.
  • With the edges assembled I added the bottom, which is just a chunk of African Mahogany, and then carefully notched the lid to match a saw kerf in the sides.
  • To enable opening of the lid I added a finger hole to one end of the box.
  • For the inside dividers I cut a pile of thin chunks of maple and roughly sized them to fit, and then sanded them down to smooth perfection.
  • I finished all the inside pieces with Osmo Polyx prior to assembly so I wouldn't have to reach into tight spaces.
  • Using the conveniently hidden bottom aspect after the sides were assembled I slid in all the dividers and then added the bottom itself.
  • A tiny piece of Wenge chipped off during the cutting of the lid, so I added it back in using my tiniest clamp.
  • With most of the box assembled I filled the gaps left over from my haphazard dovetailing process and then sanded down all the outsides, rounding the corners over in the process.
  • The lid I trimmed down very carefully using a rabbet plane, checking it for fit every few strokes. I'm working in Portland here, so I'm sure the wood will contract once I leave here, and I don't want it to be horrendously loose.
  • I used a belt sander for some of the rough sanding and then finished it on my orbital.
  • Here's the final product! A Dutch Blitz case fit for some serious gaming, and durable enough for the long haul.
  • Here's the final product! A Dutch Blitz case fit for some serious gaming, and durable enough for the long haul.
  • Here's the final product! A Dutch Blitz case fit for some serious gaming, and durable enough for the long haul.
  • Here's the final product! A Dutch Blitz case fit for some serious gaming, and durable enough for the long haul. The logo was pulled from the original box and lasered onto the lid with my dad's CNC laser.
  • Here's the final product! A Dutch Blitz case fit for some serious gaming, and durable enough for the long haul.
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